[Itinerary 1] Western Jeju for Jetlaggers
Highlights
🔖 LOTTE Rent-A-Car Jeju Auto House
There are a few car rental companies in Jeju. But I use Lotte rental car because they open at 6AM, so it’s helpful for early flights. Sign up for free membership for discounts. They also seem to have customer service that is more familiar with foreigner customers. I’m not affiliated with them at all. I would like to work on list of car rental companies, but I have not used any to give a good review.
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LOTTE Rent-A-Car Google Maps Kakaomap Naver Map
🔖 먹돌 Mokdol
This is a pork noodle place and 4 reasons to eat here if your flight arrives Jeju early in the morning - 1. The food is delicious. 2. It is very near the airport. 3. It opens at 8AM. 4. Celebs have been here.
Oh, Mokdol offers both pork noodle (soup and dry version).
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Mukdol 먹돌 제주본점 Google Maps Kakaomap Naver Map
🔖 Gueom Stone Salt Flats 구엄리돌염전
This is part of the journey, not the destination.
If you’re driving west from the airport, this landmark marks the turn onto Aewol Coastal Drive. I often use this site, or the nearby UFO Pension, to ensure I don’t miss the easily overlooked right turn on the highway.
The Gueom Stone Salt Flats are Jeju’s only stone salt fields, formed from lava-hardened basalt that has cracked and filled with seawater to harvest pure sea salt under the sun. Once covering an area of 4,958 square meters (approximately the size of 12 basketball courts), these fields were vital for the village of Gu-eom. Traditionally, the valuable salt fields were passed down to the eldest daughters, reflecting Jeju’s culture of matriarchal strength.
A cartoon panel there tells the story of these salt flats.
In the 12th year of Goryeo's King Wonjong, the village of Gueom-ri was established on the coast of Aewol. In 1573, a new method for salt production, introduced by local official Kang Yeo, spread widely, a record of which is preserved in the Namsarok.
These salt fields, stretching approximately 330 meters along the coast with a width of 50 meters and covering 4,845 square meters, yielded around 28,800 geum (about 17 tons) of salt annually.
Salt was produced by constructing small mud barriers on stones, creating salt pans that held seawater, which then evaporated naturally, leaving salt behind.
Salt from Gueom-ri became known for its quality, drawing residents from nearby villages. It was traded for local produce, like fresh garlic, which farmers eagerly exchanged for this prized salt.
Due to modernization and lifestyle changes, however, the salt fields declined, and by the 1950s, they had ceased to function.
Today, portions of the Gueom-ri stone salt fields have been restored for tourism and as a historical site. The area is part of the Jeju Olle Trail Route 16 along the scenic Eomjang coastal trail 엄장해안 , known for picturesque sunsets, which have become popular on social media.
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Gueom Stone Salt Flats : Google Map Kakaomap Naver Map
🔖 Handam Coastal Walk Area
Getting to Handam Area From the Airport
I usually set the GPS to “UFO Pension” to make the correct turn into the beautiful coastal drive, instead of using the highway. The turn could be inconspicuous even though there is a road sign. Jeju is surrounded by the beautiful sea, but the one along Aewol area has a deep blue color that’s different from other parts of Jeju. Just stop along the way and take photos.
GD Cafe is now a Crab Shop
Handam area is famous for, transparent kayaking, sunset viewing and “GD cafe” - Mônsant . GD or G-Dragon is a member of the legendary kpop group Bigbang.
A cafe he owned was here but has since been taken over Crab Jack in 2023. Coincidentally Crab Jack’s old location was at the UFO Pension. I’ve not been here so I can’t give my review.
There are many beautiful cafes options where mark-up price for the amazing sea-meeting-sky view. During extreme weather conditions in summer and winter, it is a small price to pay for respite.
BOMNAL Cafe
The cafe was uncrowded enough for me to pay a visit and see what’s all the fuss. It's definitely a cute spot by the sea with both indoor and outdoor seating. It's perfect for enjoying a sunset beer, although I was a bit disappointed that the menu didn't offer much in terms of drinks and snacks—just Corona beer, coffee, tea, and desserts.
The service is self-service only, which was fine for us since we enjoyed our drinks while ocean-gazing and catching up. They were kinda jet-lagged too. The view is simply breathtaking and worth the visit alone. Plus, there are cute corgis around, which added to the charm. Despite the average coffee, I'd still recommend popping in for the view and overall experience.
The coffee was okay. It's mandatory for each person to order a drink before entering
Parking can be a bit tricky since the cafe doesn't have its own lot, but there's a small village-operated parking area nearby. Just be prepared for it to be crowded during peak times. The driveway is quite narrow.
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Bomnal Cafe : Google Map Kakaomap Naver Map
Haejigae Cafe
Haejigae is a pure Korean word meaning 'where the sun sets over the western horizon or over the mountains'.
As its namesake, this bakery cafe is built to watch the sunset over the ocean. The interior design itself is absolutely stunning and yet cozy and quiet. It's three stories high, and the ocean view from the second floor is amazing, making it feel like you're on a boat.
I enjoy my first visit enough to come again the 2nd time. The second group enjoyed the pastries here more. The apple bread pastry is famous. The aesthetic display of the pastries elevates the gourmet experience.
Named after the beach in Bali Indonesia. The funny thing is this bakery cafe doesn’t show up on Google Map. This cafe recreates the vibe of Bali with interior decorated with rattan materials, giving it a tropical feel. The cafe offers a stunning ocean view with palm trees blending beautifully with the Aewol sea. It's almost like you can reach out and touch the ocean. I remember I came in here to escape from the August Summer Heat. Great Respite.
The pastries are pretty like the ones at Haejigae. They serve a wide selection of bakery items and beverages. While it's beautiful during the day, visiting to enjoy the sunset with the sea view would be an even more spectacular experience.
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Haejigae Cafe : Google Map Kakaomap Naver Map
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Handam Coastal Walk Area : Google Map Kakaomap Naver Map
🔖 Geumneung Beach
Geumneung Beach, tucked away in Hallim-eup, Jeju, is one of those places that feels like a well-kept secret. It shares a shoreline with the more popular Hyeopjae Beach, but Geumneung is quieter, more down-to-earth. During low tide, the beach opens up wide, with soft, white sand stretching far enough to make you feel like you’ve got all the time in the world. The shallow waters make the view of the emerald-green sea, warm sunsets, and Biyangdo Island just off the coast hard to resist .
Jeju’s iconic female divers are sometimes seen braving the rocky shores nearby, gathering abalone and conch. You’ll also find traces of old fishing traps tucked among the rocks and in the traditional old hanok houses in the nearby tranquil neighborhood.
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Geumneung Beach Google Maps Kakaomap Naver Map
🔖 Emart
In Jeju, there are 3 hypermarkets brands: Emart, Lotte Mart, and Homeplus. There is only 1 Homeplus and 1 Lotte Mart on the island, but there are 3 Emarts. Homeplus is located in Seogwipo, while Lotte Mart is near Emart Sinjeju.
You’ll also find many Hanaro Supermarkets, smaller in scale but useful for everyday essentials. However, these smaller stores don’t carry larger-sized items from certain brands like the hypermarkets do.
Like anywhere else, the supermarkets can get crowded after office-hours and weekends.
3 Emarts in Jeju.
Emart Jeju at Tapdong-ro Emart Jeju
Emart Sinjeju at Jeju-si Emart Sinjeju
Emart Seogwipo 이마트 서귀포점
( Make sure to check their rest days on Naver Map.)
Emart Jeju at Tapdong-ro
Emart Jeju is located by the ocean, making it perfect for a leisurely walk after shopping. It's about 4 km east of the airport.
There’s indoor and outdoor parking. Parking is free for the first 30 minutes and you can get 2 hours of free parking with a 10,000 KRW purchase—this seems to apply to all Emart locations. Upon entering, a camera at the gantry snaps a photo of your car’s number plate, so be sure to scan your receipt at the parking machine before leaving to validate your complimentary parking.
This Emart is also the closest to Dongmun Market if you want to continue your shopping spree.
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Emart Jeju at Tapdong-ro Google Maps Kakaomap Naver Map
Emart Sinjeju at Jeju-si
Once, I got the wrong Emart on the navigation app and got stuck in an unnecessary traffic jam because Emart Sinjeju and the one at Tapdong-ro have similar names.
Emart Sinjeju is located further inland. Both are about the same distance from the airport.
Emart Sinjeju holds a special place in my heart. It was the first Emart I visited, and on what was supposed to be a typhoon day, we ended up spending the entire afternoon there trying on hats and visors. There were constant typhoon warnings, so we had planned to stay indoors at Emart all day, but didn’t expect to have so much fun. It turned out the typhoon bypassed Jeju, and the island was barely affected.
There’s a Starbucks next to this Emart, as well as a few restaurants and cafés across the street. A second outdoor parking lot is also located nearby—check the parking machines here for details.
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Emart Sinjeju at Jeju-si Google Maps Kakaomap Naver Map
Emart Seogwipo
Emart Seogwipo is the farthest from the airport, serving the southern part of the island in Seogwipo.
I’ve only been there once, and it was a quick visit to pick up last-minute toiletries and underwear after deciding not to drive back to our lodging. So, I don’t have much to say about it, but it got the job done!
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Emart Seogwipo Google Maps Kakaomap Naver Map
🔖 Dongmun Traditional Market
There are 2 big traditional markets in Jeju, Dongmun Market and Seogwipo Market.
Dongmun Market is near Jeju Airport, about 5km away and walking distance to Jungang Underground Shopping Mall .
Though these markets are open during the day, I recommend visiting at night for a more vibrant vibe, when both domestic and foreign tourists gather. My general rule is to schedule indoor shopping for the evening, after the sun sets and there’s no more nature to savour.
Dongmun Market is open from 6 PM to midnight from November to April, and from 7 PM to midnight from May to October.
Personally, I’m not a big fan of crowds, so I don’t visit these markets often. However, the few times I’ve gone, the crowds weren’t overwhelming. I’d recommend going at least once when you visit Jeju.
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Dongmun Market Google Maps Kakaomap Naver Map
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I’ll share a little history about Dongmun Market. Source
The Dongmun Market in Jeju has a long, dramatic history marked by tragedy, resilience, and reinvention. In 1953, a devastating fire broke out, taking three hours to extinguish despite the efforts of volunteer and military firefighters. The damage was severe—two lives lost, 13 severely injured, 112 buildings destroyed, and over 2,000 residents displaced. Just a year later, in October 1954, a careless flick of a cigarette sparked another fire, burning down the remaining structures.
Following these disasters, the market was relocated to its current site, reopening on November 9, 1954, with support from the U.S. military government. For decades, the market thrived, becoming a local hub. But as time passed, the old buildings aged, parking became a problem, and competition from modern retail chains began to erode the market's influence. It was clear: if the market was going to survive, it needed a serious upgrade.
In 1998, local merchants and residents formally requested redevelopment. By 2000, the city of Jeju had finalized plans, holding discussions with market vendors to secure their cooperation. After buying additional land, construction began in October 2001, and the revamped market was completed two years later, in October 2003. The new Dongmun Market now spans 848 pyeong (approximately 2,800 square meters), with underground and above-ground shops selling everything from groceries to clothing. There’s even rooftop parking, with plans to build an additional three-level parking facility scheduled to break ground by the end of the year.
Recently, the market celebrated its 60th anniversary with a variety of events to thank the community for its support. Looking ahead, the merchants are committed to revitalizing Jeju’s traditional markets by offering affordable, high-quality products and excellent service to keep the spirit of the market alive for future generations.
The story of Dongmun Market is one of survival, adaptability, and the grit of a community determined to preserve its place at the heart of Jeju’s economy, despite fires, modernization, and shifting tides.
Your could pack foods from the many stalls or eat-in at some of the restaurants. These are the 2 restaurants I’ve been. They were all right, not bad, not great. See reviews from the links.
Seoul Tteokbeokki 서울떡볶이 / 서울분식
Google Maps Kakaomap Naver Map
Dongmun Olle Seafoods 동문올레수산
Google Maps Kakaomap Naver Map
